La Bombonera de Boca Juniors

Boca Juniors is the best and most popular futbol team in Argentina. They play in "La Bombanera" which I thought was some sort of artillery device. Instead, it means "Chocolate Box." Despite the name, it is a scary place since it is located in the neighborhood of Boca which is dangerous. Tourists are warned not to go to games there unless they have local guides. There was an intense rivalry between Boca and River Plate until River (pronounced "Reever") was knocked down to the B Division. (Continued after the next photo)

My professor is a huge futbol fan and suggested I go to La Bombanera to see a game this weekend. It turned out Godoy Cruz from Mendoza was playing against San Lorenzo from Buenos Aires. We bought tickets and arrived to find mounted cops and lines of riot police. We got in a long line of fans who were marching along the outside of the stadium pounding on the metal siding, which was deafening. They were singing songs in unison in loud voices.

We had trouble finding the right entrance and then, when we got in, and emerged into La Bombonera right when San Lorenzo scored. It gave me chills to see the crowd, like some enormous monster, pulsing and throbbing as if trying to get free of some restraint. The steep steps of La Bombonera seemed to amplify the sounds of pounding drums, whistling, cheering and singing fans. We had great seats, near the field and I could see turf fly off their cleats as they ran. I have to say that of all the professional sports I've seen this was the most impressive -- far more impressive than seeing it on TV. The players seemed incredibly fast and powerful and fought for every ball. San Lorenzo won 3-0. Afterwards, we saw cars driving around with guys hanging out the window. And one fan rode down a busy city street in the back of a hatchback happily covered in shaving cream. Don't ask me why.